On his 39th birthday in July 2008. Rancho Santa Fe's Tim Bacino had an epiphany. Bacino's family had long ago sold the winemaking business that had taken, root in 1832 when his ancestors immigrated to California from France. The company eventually would become known as Brookside Winery, once the largest wine producer in California with dozens of retail tasting rooms. Beatrice Foods bought the company in 1972, later selling it to developers. Decades later, on that July day, Bacino had an overwhelming spiritual feeling to resurrect the family business. It was a deeper cause, he recalls. "It wasn't just about a guy making wine."